Climbing in Calanques History

La Candelle et son socle

Stretched over 20 miles long and 4 miles wide between the Goudes, southwest of Marseille, and Cassis, the Calanques is undoubtedly one of the most remarkable landscapes in France. Over one million visitors come each year to enjoy this natural gem, which is ideal for sports activities in nature such as hiking, kayaking and climbing.

With nearly 3500 routes, the Calanques are one of the greatest climbing areas in the world. The rock quality, the variety of routes, sunny conditions, factors that make a worldwide recognized  site. But few people know the story…

For over 130 years, the biggest climbers relayed to open routes as mythical as some Alps races. The beginnings of rock climbing in the Calanques are done “alpine”: it seeks to reach the heights and places previously unexplored. The Marseille George Livanos and Gaston Rebuffat are among the most famous climbers of the era and made history by their achievements. They both discovered climbing in the Calanques and have opened hundreds of routes that have subsequently trained generations of climbers of international repute and have launched a real dynamic of sporting achievements.

Altaïr - 7B - Oasis

To preserve this unique natural site, located near the second city of France, a national park project is being create, led by the Public Interest Group of the Calanques (GIP). Today, some parts of the project are subject to debate. Indeed, areas of “wilderness” that includes the sea cliffs of Devenson (from the Oeil de Verre to En Vau) and cliffs Soubeyranne (from Canaille to l’Aigle), completely prohibiting access to any public, have been proposed by the GIP.

According to the association “Des Calanques et des Hommes”, initiated by André Bernard, 40% of cliffs are prohibited. It also highlights that this restriction also applies to maritime users of the Calanques (kayakers). The members support the creation of a national park but with respect of the historical life and users of the park.

My project is to demonstrate, through a film, the essential importance of the Calanques in the life of modern mountaineering. I also wish to show that we have a unique opportunity to own such a site near a major city and should protect it. The opinion leaders in charge of creating the national park will be exposed as the actors of the park (climbers, kayakers, hikers, etc. …).

This film is a an original account of the history of climbing in the Calanques, but also a promotion for the protection of nature and an element of reflection on how to protect a natural area.

This project has been funded with support from the European Commission. This publication (communication) reflects the author's and the Commission is not responsible for any use that might be made of the information contained therein.